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Life on the Barges

The lot of a bargee and his family was not an easy one. Whatever the weather, cargoes had to be transported for if they weren't working there was no money to be had. And that also meant working through wars and risking attack, and also running the gauntlet of the navy's press-gangs and thieves determined to relieve the bargee of the goods he was carrying.

ELSEWHERE LINKS WEY NAVIGATION TREES
click for a smile!

Wey
Snippets

WEY BLOG
"I have just lit my fire, and as I sit here I am feeling a bit of a chill. I wonder how many boaters keep their fire in 24/7. I don't, but many of the people moored near me do, and indeed one person I know lights their fire at the beginning of the season and snuffs it out at the end. I can certainly see the benefit to keeping it in, I might try it for a few days. One of the major benefits is that heat gets down to the bedroom area. There are other ways to do this - radiators and even apparently an eco-fan. I have neither... but I do have a newspaper to flap around to distribute the warm air..." Blogger Mortimer Bones 14th January 2007

WEY LIFE
The river is criss-crossed with many examples of the massive explosion of the railways during Victorian times. Always opportunists, the bargees operating along the Wey Navigation struck an unusual arrangement with the engine drivers of the steam trains that used to cross over the waterway near to Shalford. The Reading via Guildford to Redhil line was carried over the river on what was then an open wooden bridge. The engines had to stop on the bridge to await a green signal before joining the main London to Portsmouth line. The barge crews used to moor up underneath the bridge and call up to the stoker to throw down a shovel or two of coal, a welcome donation for fuelling their coal burning stoves.

POLING A BARGE

WEY VALLEY FOOD
OVER THE CENTURIES
“To Pickle Clove Gilly-Flowers for Sallads”
Worplesdon 19th century Recipe
“Take the fairest Clove Cilly-Flowers, clip off the whites from them, put them into a Wide-mouthed Glass, and strew a good deal of sugar finely beaten among them, as will thoroughly Wet them, tye them up close and set them in the Sun, and in a little while they will be fit for use.” Old Surrey Receipts & Food for Thought. Daphne Grimm

WEY LIFE
As one old eel catcher used to say. "As for they elvers - my wife - they do make her proper frisky." Michael Brown eel smoker

HEAVY HORSES

click image to enlarge

WEY LIFE
“If you could have seen the old Anchor public house (at Pyrford Lock). It was like a sewerage farm. There used to be chickens, dogs, cats, pigs, running in and out of the bars. It was down to earth alright. They used to get all these people of the road, towpath fairies we used to call them, vagabonds and all that. How they used to make it pay in these pubs, I don’t know. But the stench was terrible. In the Anchor they give you half a loaf and half a pound of cheese for ninepence. You couldn’t get that for ninepence now. The bread they used to bake themselves, there were no bakers in those days. But the beer was good.”
Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber


NARROWBOAT BOOT GARDEN

click images to enlarge

WATER LIFE
“Sitting here on a Thames visitor mooring I am amazed at the speed boaters go past. I have noticed that the taller, more expensive plastic looking boats are the bigger culprits, but they are not alone, nearly all the narrow boats going past have also been speeding. The cause of this could well be the difference between those who moor at a “basin” over those with linear moorings. One never really realised the damage wash does to boats, let along to wildlife, unless a witness to it. Boating to me is about resting; experiencing; not rushing and enjoying the peace. I also sit on logs along walks to take in my surroundings, I also don’t speed on the roads. The beauty of the waterways is that it serves all sorts of people, not just me; but the people they serve must serve it and protect the habitat that the river is so famous for.
" Riverboat blogger 'Narrowboat Jones' October 2006

MANHANDLING BARGE BENEATH A BRIDGE

WEY BLOG
"Although I've wanted to own a narrowboat for half my life, I'd never actually been on one so it seemed sensible to learn how to drive properly and safely. There is no such thing as a driving licence for a boat, anyone can just jump on and drive off without a competency test or even any instruction. I'd seen enough holiday boaters ramming into locks, driving at full speed past moored boats and generally winding up the other boaters to know that I needed proper instruction." Blogger: NB Bristol Fashion May 2006

WEY BLOG
"Another good method of getting afloat on the inland waterways, and in general a comparatively economical one, is to acquire a share of a boat.

"There are several organisations offering shares of narrowboats - usually six, eight or twelve shares per boat. A Google search will bring up the most active organisations. We own a share in Somerton . . . which is 58 ft long and has six comfortable berths and two loos. It is one of many such boats operated by the 'Ownerships' organisation, but in fact belongs jointly to its group of owners, not the organisation. We have use of the boat for two summer weeks and one autumn week each year, and compared to hiring a boat of this quality it really is an affordable alternative.

"Every autumn the owners group meets up to discuss and decide such matters as where to have the boat moored next year, and what needs to be done during the winter maintenance period. One of the good things about the scheme is that sharing the costs with eleven others keeps the annual expenses within reason. Even a bit of luxury can be afforded occasionally." Blogger Andy S 29th November 2006

WATERWAYS CLOSURE THREAT

DAPDUNE WHARF - THE CENTRE OF WEY BARGE BUILDING

LARRY HALLIDAY - LENGTHSMAN ON THE WEY

THAMES LOCK BARGE

The Last Bargemaster

“There was a start of water, flood water on the towpath, and the towrope had parted around the roll. The first horse was catapulted into the bog. They had to cut the rope quick, before it pulled the second horse in, but before they could get adequate help that horse was practically finished. There was nothing they could do, just had to let it sink in, harness and all.” Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber

Nancy Larcomber interviewed one of the last bargemasters who worked their craft between London and various towns along the Wey Navigations and the Basingstoke Canal during the early and mid part of the 20th century. Some of Captain Steve White’s accounts of life on the river have been quoted throughout this site, although I do recommend that you get hold of a copy of the full and far more expansive text as it makes for fascinating reading. This was published in 1995 by Towed Haul as Captain White’s River Life and is edited & illustrated by Nancy Larcomber.

White started working on the barges at the age of twelve, and was officially on the haulier’s payroll at fourteen.

“The Weybridge. She had a skipper called Martyr. He came to a bad end. As he went he hit his head on the side of a steel barge. Of course he went straight down. That’s where they found him. His hitcher (a pole with a hook on it) was found across the barge, so they knew exactly how he died and how he went in. Well, I had to go to London and get the barge. There was his food, his cigarettes, matches, just as he left the, all in the cabin.” Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber

Quiet Mooring Click to visit Sarah Chanin's website
click on image to go to artist's website

All Weathers - Many Dangers

The barges were worked in all weathers throughout the year, and their voyages continued throughout the war. Such was the vital role that the barges played in moving essential commodities around the county in the last war that bargemasters like Captain White risked their lives to get through, surviving bombings and the random strafing of their craft by lone Luftwaffe fighter planes.

“We were unloading there (Broadford Bridge Wharf) one day during the war and Charlie Deedman said, ‘There’s an aeroplane coming. I don’t like the look of it.’ We’d already had the air raid warning. And this plane came down, and he machine-gunned the boiler house. So Charlie said, ‘He’s going to machine gun us now.’ Anyway he did. He machine-gunned the crane. Charlie slipped under the crane, and it was a jolly good job he did because the bullets from the aeroplane severed the chain that was holding the jib, and the jib fell across the barge and bent. We couldn’t unload the barge after that until the jib was repaired. And then he (the pilot) went and machine-gunned the Royal Surrey County, and I believe then the plane was brought down.” Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber

The early barge crews had a lot to contend with. Over and above the hard manual work and the discomfort of working the river especially during the bitter winter months, they were prey not only to a vagabond chancing his hand, but also to press gangs unofficially operated by the Admiralty. These gangs, which operated along the lower reaches of the Wey Navigation and along the Thames until as recently as 1815, were paid to seize able bodied men and present them to the Navy for service. Proprietors of the companies running barges up and down the Wey regularly had to petition the Admiralty to cease the attempts of the press gangs to kidnap their crews. At the end of the 18th century there were documented 35 applications made by barge owners to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to provide protection from this activity, which was not only terrifying the crews and their families but also jeopardising their businesses. Incredibly the Commissioners would only issue ‘protections’ for periods of 3 months which must have created considerable consternation at the time. The barge owners complained that when the petition had expired ‘the men have left their barges and secret themselves to avoid being pressed, whereby the trade is stopped to the very great detriment of the petitioners as well as the country in general.’

HARRY STEVENS

Carters & Bow-haulers

Another breed of Wey Navigation professionals were the carters. Carters did not own or captain vessels but provided and led horses to tow the barges.

Where horses weren’t available the barges had literally to be towed by hand. This tough job fell to the bow-haulers who worked together and could haul a fully laden barge from Stoke Lock in Guildford the 16 miles to Thames Lock at Weybridge leaving at 6.00 am and arriving at the Thames by 3.00 pm, a considerable achievement given the bulk and weight of the vessels they were hauling. Their job could become extremely hazardous if the weather turned and cross-winds and flooding resulted. The team would usually work with several bow-haulers hauling the barge and a single man working a rope downstream to minimise the effects of drift from cross-winds and flooding. A donkey or pony was often used on the stern for the same job.

When water levels made use of the towpath hazardous, and when navigating the much broader River Thames, the barges were also poled and rowed if sails couldn’t be used or the barge wasn’t equipped. Each man would wield an 18 foot (5.5 metres) long oar.

“I kept a bottle of brandy or a bottle of rum in the cupboard, ‘cause when it was cold, it used to be cold!” Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber

Mechanisation saw the decline of the carters as coal fired and eventually diesel engines took the strain.

Morning Glory Morning Glory
click on image to go to artist's website

Confined Quarters

The barges were equipped with a small living space and bunks. Captain White had the luxury of a feather bed which was fine as long as he managed to keep it dry and well aired. He, like other bargemasters, also had a small cooking range fired by coal and with rails around the top to stop pans and the kettle from falling off. A typical range of this type has been preserved in the galley of the Godalming Packet Boat Company’s vessel, the horse-drawn Iona.

“There’s barges loaded off the tiers – tiers is what we called it when the ships were laying on the buoys. P’raps they’d load tea, or something that’s very valuable, and the chaps in the boats – thieves, Fagin’s as they used to call them in those days, they let the barge go, let them adrift, and there’d be someone ready to pick it up and take it somewhere. A lot of that used to happen during the war. I know once during the war, there was a barge came out of the dock with us, and was loaded with salmon, best salmon. We laid alongside that barge all night. But we never heard nothing. But she was empty. How they did it I don’t know. I suppose they did it while the air-raid was on.” Captain White's River Life Nancy Larcomber

ABOUT THE BARGES

DAPDUNE WHARF - THE CENTRE OF WEY BARGE BUILDING

FIND OUT ABOUT HOW LOCKS WORK

LARRY HALLIDAY - LENGTHSMAN ON THE WEY

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